Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Award 2006, Costume Society of America Americans began the twentieth century standing in Europe's sartorial shadow, yet ended by outfitting the world in blue jeans, T-shirts and sneakers. How did this come about? What changes in American culture were reflected in fashion? What role did popular culture play?This important overview of American fashion in the twentieth century considers how Americans went from imitating British and French fashion to developing their own sense of style. It examines such influences on dress as class, jazz and hip hop, war, the space race, movies, television and sports. Further, the book shows how gender, psychology, advertising, public policy, shifting family values, the American design movement and expertise in mass production profoundly influenced an American style that has been exported across the globe. From New York City's Bohemians to Hollywood's stars, Twentieth-Century American Fashion reveals the continuing importance of clothing to American identity and individual experience. This is a strong collection of essays that brings together a very balanced variety of subjects and viewpoints. Its insights into the USA's transition from fashion follower to fashion leader and the influence of American culture on the wider fashion world not only make interesting reading but would make a good supplement to general histories of American fashion.